Axolotl Care Sheet

Axolotl Basic Care Sheet

So you have collected your Axolotl and now the anxiety has kicked in, how will you know that you are providing him or her with the correct care? We understand that all the research in the world can escape you once you bring your new Axolotl home.

We at Southwest Axolotls want to help you in providing your Axolotl with the very best, and correct care, this is why we have created this basic care sheet, for you to look over whenever you have any doubts regarding what your Axolotl needs to thrive.

1. Cycle Your Tank

Before re-homing any of our Axolotls, we will request that you provide us with a water sample to ensure that your tank is fully cycled and safe for your new Axolotl. For information on how to cycle your tank correctly, please visit https://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2020/02/fishless-aquarium-cycling/

2. Tank Substrate NO GRAVEL

As this title suggests Axolotls should not be introduced to a tank that includes gravel. This is because axolotls will attempt to eat anything that will fit in their mouth, and whilst they may be able to eat gravel, they cannot pass it, so this leads to impactation and in serious cases death. The best substrate to use in your tank is actually no substrate at all, a bare bottom tank alleviates any potential impactation issues. If however, a bare bottom tank isn’t for you, then very fine sand should be used instead. Large stones and slate can be added to the tank as long as they are much bigger than the size of the Axolotls head.

3. Water Temperature

Axolotls thrive in cold water, so there is no need to add a heater to your tank. The ideal living conditions for an Axolotl is a temperature between 15 and 18 degrees celsius. During warmer months these parameters can be met by using ice-cooling blocks, an aquarium fan or chiller.

4. Tank Size

Axolotls don’t stay tiny for long, in fact, they can grow in excess of 24cm so they need a tank with plenty of room for them to grow and move around freely. There are many arguments as to what the ideal size is, but from experience, we recommend that the minimum tank capacity requirements for a single Axolotl are 20 gallons. If you will be adding an additional Axolotl to the tank, you need to add a further 10 gallons for each additional tank mate.

5. Hides & Ornaments

Each Axolotl needs to have its own hide, there any many different hides available for Axolotls, however, reptile hides seem to be best given their size. You can also make your own hides using large glass jars and even cups. As long as they have a dark place to escape into they will be happy.

Plastic or live plants are fine for Axolotls, however, be warned that they like to climb and be rather destructive when it comes to plants, so plastic ones may prove more cost-effective.

6. Water Changes

Your Axolotls tank will be to be cleaned weekly to maintain proper parameters. This involves removing 30% of the tank water from the tank and filling the tank back up with fresh conditioned water. Remember to always condition your water to remove chlorine and any harmful substances. There are many “Tap safe” products available at local fish stores.

7. Tank Mates

DO NOT KEEP FISH WITH YOUR AXOLOTL your fish will eventually “disappear”. As well as your fish becoming Axolotl food, they can also cause stress to your Axolotl by nipping at their gills as well as passing on bacteria. Some fish skeletons are also hard for an Axolotl to digest, in turn causing impactation and further health issues.

More than one Axolotl can be safely housed together, providing the tank is of adequate size. Co-habiting Axololts should also be introduced when they are similar in size to reduce the risk of any injuries. They should also be housed in same-sex groups unless they are being bred.

Baby and Juvenile Axolotls have a tendency to nip at each other’s limbs causing injuries, this is usually down to a feeding response, where the baby mistakes his or her tank mates foot for food, whilst they’re still finding their feet in the world. To prevent this happening babies should be split into groups of the same size (babies grow at different rates), this will help stop any serious injuries occurring.

8. Feeding Your Axolotl

Babies

By the time your Axolotl is ready for you to collect, they will be on a diet of frozen blood worm. This should be fed to them once a day and any excess food removed from their tank. As you Axolotl grows we recommend introducing high-quality feeding pellets to add variety, and then they should move onto earthworms as their stable diet moving forward.

Adults

Adult Axolotls should be on a diet consisting of earthworms. 1-2 medium dendrobaenas per day. Some people recommend missing feeds during the weekend in order to allow your Axolotls digestive system time to catch up, or feeding every couple of days. We say that you will get to know your Axolotl better than anyone and they have an uncanny knack of letting you know when they are hungry or even spitting food out when they are still full from their last meal. So feeding daily or on alternate days are both ok, it is down to you to decide which works best for your Axolotl. If you have a rescue from us we will, of course, advise you of how they are currently being fed, and that just stay as-is.

9. No Lights

Axolotls have no eyelids so they are extremely sensitive to lights, because of this there is no need to have a light on your tank, natural room lighting is fine.

10. Filtration

Axolotls don’t like a strong water current. So sponge filters or external filters with slow-moving currents are recommended.

Axolotls make great pets and each have unique, fascinating little personalities. As long as you follow these basic bits of advice both you and your Axolotl will be happy, healthy and the best of friends.

Should you have any questions or concerns about your Axolotl please do not hesitate to contact Lana or Raveca at Southwestaxololts@yahoo.com